Wiring and switching the boards:
1) Remove the old TriGorilla board
Hint: Label the motors X, Y, and Z, per the way they were plugged in originally by the factory.
Power off, remove the power cord, lift the bed, and unplug everything from the existing tri-gorilla controller board. Remove the TriGorilla (main controller) board.
Remove the LCD from the front of the printer. It will not be re-used.
2) Mount the Duet board.
There are numerous mounts on Thingiverse that could be adapted. I chose this one and then modified it by cutting a square out of the base, both to eliminate the “logo” and to speed up printing. Note this does NOT “present” the SD mount and USB “through the rail”. The need to reach these on a Duet is so rare that I am fine with having to lift the bed to access them.
3) Wiring motors, re-using connectors.
First, plug in the motors using existing cables. If you look, the holes for the pins are much nearer one side of the plug than the other. Orient the narrow side toward the “tab” on the Duet board. X, Y, Z and E0 are all labeled on the Duet board. Leave factory jumpers in place on the Duet dual Z connector.
4) Wiring endstops, connectors MUST change
The supplied AKL endstop cables have two-pin connectors. The Duet board REQUIRES the two pins from a microswitch be the “outer” two pins of a three pin connector. Therefore the connectors must be changed.
The “Duet” way to do this is to cut the two pin connectors off, crimp on new “fingers”, and insert these into the outer two pins of a three pin shell. The pins and shells are all provided. These are NOT polarized.
I happened to have a bunch of “Radio control style” 3 pin shells, which are compatible with the “pins” that are in the AKL provided shells. Therefore, I pulled the pins out of the two-pin shells (by lifting the plastic tab with the tip of a scalpel or x-acto) and re-inserted those pins in the outer two slots of a 3 pin shell.
This photo shows one of the AKL provided two-pin shells still on the end of a cable, the Duet provided 3-pin shells and pins, and the “Radio Control” style 3-pin shells that I happened to have.
You will change FOUR cables. The three that come from the X, Y, and Z towers, as well as the one that is in the bundle coming from the effector. That is the “Z-Probe” wire.
These are NOT polarized. Although, if you are OCD, you may wish to be consistent.
After you’ve changed the connector, plug the enstops in as shown in the photo. Remember the hint to label your motors? You can follow the endstop wire from a tower and motor label to know where to plug it.
Plug the cable that is in the bundle from the effector, the “Z-Probe” wire, plug that into the E0 endstop. The photo only shows three of the four. These are NOT polarized.
4) Wiring fans, connectors may or may not change
The AKL fan connectors will physically fit, sort of. Best practice is to cut them off, and wire two-pin connectors as provided by Duet. These ARE polarized, look at the photos or a wiring diagram of the Duet.
If you do re-use the AKL connectors, the way they must go for correct polarization requires a bit of force-fit and risks breaking the “tab” on the Duet board. I chose to be lazy, re-use the AKL connectors, and I did indeed break one of the tabs. You can see it in the second photo.
Fan 0 on AKL goes to Fan 0 on Duet.
Fan 2 on AKL goes to Fan 1 on Duet.
4) Other wiring from the Effector
The thermistor wire (skinny white pair) is not polarized and plugs into thermistor 0 on the Duet. See photo.
The heater wires for the effector hot-end come from Anycubic as bare wire that has been soldered into one bundle. CUT THIS OFF. Ideally, attach crimp-on connectors… if not, just twist the bare wires. Put these in the screw terminals for Heater 0.
Neatly bundle the excess effector wiring and secure it with a small wire-tie. It is also good practice to secure the spiral wrapped bundle to the frame, in order to prevent long-term problems from repeated flexing.
Check all wiring carefully against these photos… we are getting close!
5) Wires from power supply, connectors should change
The AKL power supply wiring has three things that will need to change: It is very likely not long enough to reach the power connector on the Duet, it comes from the factory with soldered ends, and it has two positives (red) and two negatives (black) where Duet needs only one of each. (And you can’t leave the other set just floating around).
Remove the power supply completely from its mount, remove the end-casing, remove the four existing low voltage wires (two black, two red).
Make new, longer wires, one black, one red. Ideally, use crimp on connectors, “spade” on the power supply end, and “bootlace” on the Duet end. If this is not possible, use bare twisted wire. DO NOT solder.
Since I’d already changed the existing wires to bootlace crimps, I re-used the existing wires by cutting them up and solder/heat shrink the pieces to make them longer.
Connect these to the big green screw connectors labeled “VIN”. These ARE polarized and are one of the MOST IMPORTANT polarization connections to get right. Check it carefully.
6) Wiring from bed, connectors should change
Cut the soldered ends off the bed heater wires. Crimp on bootlace, or just twist the bare ends. These go in the other big green connector, marked for the bed heater, and are not polarized.
The bed thermistor (two thin white wires) go to the connector right next to the big green screw terminals where the bed heater connected.
4) That’s it!!
Check everything one more time, then power up and get ready to configure.
Click here for Part 4